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Black in Fashion at National Gallery of Victoria
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Features -
Fashion
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Words :: Meera Sanghvi
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31-05-08
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It was only ever going to be a matter of time before black went to bring it back. The old cliché ‘blah is the new black’ gets bandied around so much its lost its meaning in any sense other than the ironic. But if Duran Duran is the new black, what’s up with black, I hear you cry? Well, like any self respecting original sidelined by a useless throwaway, it’s gone and got itself its very own exhibition, Black in Fashion at NGV, confirming that, in this town at least, black will always be exactly where it’s at.
This is the first time NGV has shown an exhibition jointly between both its venues - displaying the Australian collection at Federation Square and the overseas designs at NGV International - with the international show definitely worth a look. Black in Fashion looks at the colour black and its evolution from 19th century mourning attire, through the time it signified nobility and wealth given the expense of dye, to its modern representation of versatility, timeless elegance and classic evening wear.
Although set to a rather obvious playlist, (Black Hair - Nick Cave and the Bad Seeds and Depeche Mode’s Dressed in Black to give you an idea) there are pieces featured that can be described as nothing less than iconic, ones that made skirts fly up when they first appeared on Parisian runways. Yves St Laurent's controversial and provocative Le Smoking completely redefined what a woman could wear in the 1960s - so ladies go along if only to pay homage to the man who made it possible for you to sport a pantsuit. Other highlights include the Jean Paul Gaultier 80's military style jumpsuit and the SEX leather court shoes, a Vivienne Westwood offering of fetish punk. Meanwhile, the more subdued Australian collection features garments with a strong Melbourne focus, such as the offerings from Jenny Bannister and boutique fashion house Remond, but it lacks the punch and wow-factor of the garments across the road.
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It might not be the most revolutionary idea for an exhibition - Black attire is about the one constant in the ever evolving and often crazy world of couture - yet in fashion it’s a shade that can scream louder than any colour. It’s appropriate at any age and for any occasion, when in doubt it’s the franchise. This truly is an exhibition for the oh-so monochrome Melbourne.
Black in Fashion is on display at the NGV: International and The Ian Potter Centre: NGV Australia until 31st August. Admission Free.
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