Situated between a cobblestone alleyway and a rather good op-shop can be found the very best type of footwear designer. Now, just what type is that, we hear you ask? To be precise: the type who is educated in the craft of hand-made production, who welcomes you warmly with a mug of water and a cosy stool to sit on, and invites you to prance/stumble around his whirring communal studio decked out in a pair of the most heavenly of avant-garde wooden wedges.
In an industry increasingly dominated by sweatshops, trend-conformism and offshore manufacturing, Phong Chi Lai’s flats, boots and wedges are specifically luxurious for the knowledge that they’re all made entirely from hand. For those of us who know little about the traditional creation of footwear – present company included – production involves carving and hand-turning the wedge wooden heels out of a singular piece of wood. In simpleton terms, the result is the stuff that foot-fetish dreams are made of.
Whilst barely out of his first collection, Phong Chi Lai is stocked in some of Australia’s most exclusive boutiques, was awarded the Fashion Palette Excellence Award for Accessories Design earlier this year, and just collaborated with Lui Hon on his recent lookbook. In the midst of shoe samples, leather swatches and wood carvings, Phong Chi Lai took time to chat with Hayley and myself at his Brunswick East studio.
Em: You decided to pursue shoe-making on a whim after some time abroad in Europe. How’ve you found the journey since you first delved in to this creative pursuit?
Phong: It’s been really good, but also very hard! In Australia - and Melbourne specifically – handmade shoemaking is no longer a thriving industry. So, I’ve really been focusing on trying to source materials and on trying to source out extra help. It hasn’t exactly been the easiest thing – but at the same time I have just started!
Em: After finishing your studies in Adelaide, you moved to Melbourne to work for design institution Preston Zly Design who are renowned for their recent collaborations with labels such as MaterialByProduct and Akira. What drew you to our city’s aesthetic?
Phong: Melbourne use to be the epicentre of shoemaking in Australia. Although the industry has died, there is still a lot more happening here in terms of suppliers and help. I also knew about Preston Zly from Melbourne, and I really wanted to work with them and learn as much as possible. And - lucky for me - I was given that chance!
Em: Your self-titled label dedicates itself to sourcing materials locally, and you make each and every single piece by hand in your local studio. What influenced this decision at a time when so many others are outsourcing?
Phong: The biggest influence would have to be financial – I know I can do it myself by hand, and I simply don’t have the capital outlay to go anywhere else to do it. However, I can’t rule it out that I wouldn’t ever do this. You need to expand to grow. To make money you need to produce in large quantities – much more than what I’m doing by myself at the moment. For now, however, I’m happy doing everything myself. I keep an eye on quality control and I keep everything to myself.
Em: Your latest SS0910 Collection ‘J-Horror’ draws inspiration from Japanese simplicity and the shoes worn by traditional Geisha. It is also named after the very particularly Japanese brand of horror cinema that has become so popular in mainstream culture. Where does your fascination with Japanese culture stem from?
Phong: It mainly stems from Tokyo – I think it’s just such an amazing place. I love the fact that Japanese people are so subversive, and that there’s two sides to them. There are these really young guys who are totally outrageous in their style and their fashion, and then the minute they grow up they have to convert to this totally different aesthetic and mentality. I really enjoy this double-sided sword aspect of their lifestyles.
Em: So tell us a bit more about the evolution of J-Horror – what pair of shoes started the inspiration for it all?
Phong: It was started by a pair of shoes owned by a friend of mine! I saw them in her studio, and was just like ‘wow’. They are these really chunky 1970’s platforms made out of wood. I just think that the grain in wood is so beautiful when it is stained. It pretty much all stemmed for that.
Em: You also cite op-shops as a great way to find shoe inspiration. Where do you like to delve in Melbourne?
Phong: I’m always going to Savers! And all of us here in the studio love the Brotherhood of St Laurence next door! I also love Super Savers on St Georges Rd – that one’s really good and it is still really good prices.
Em: So tell us a little bit about your upcoming AW10 Collection?
Phong: It’s based loosely around the show Daria, and more specifically around the character of Daria’s best friend Jane. A lot of AW10 was loosely based around her boots. This next collection sees a lot of tough, army boots and generally just a more masculine style.
With my label, all of my flat styles are designed to be unisex. This is because I always have myself in mind whenever I make anything and like to know that I will be able to make myself a pair! In a way, all of my heels are a variation of a flat shoe – such as with this upcoming wedged laced brogue which I gave a beautiful stained wooden heel.
I really like clean lines when it comes to footwear. With these boots, the curve really follows the line of the shoe, and I personally think it looks stunning…but of course, seeing as all my samples for AW10 are currently with my sales agent, you will just have to wait and see!
All studio photography by Hayley Hughes at Melbourne Street Fashion. Hanging shoes pictured alongside Phong Chi Lai's glorious wedges and flats include bespoke designs from Melbourne favourite, Emma The Shoemaker.
Phong Chi Lai shoes are stocked at Verve Boutique on Little Collins in Melbourne, and can also be purchased online at The New Guard.
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